Fanal — Madeira's Ancient Forest

Fanal is one of the best-known and best-preserved parts of the ancient Laurissilva forest system, which dates back around 20 million years. Today, this relict forest survives in Macaronesia — on Madeira, the Azores and the Canary Islands. Madeira is home to the largest remaining area of primary Laurissilva, which was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1999.

Why is Fanal unique?

One of Fanal's defining features is its centuries-old forest of tis (Ocotea foetens). Some of these trees were already here before the archipelago was discovered. Over hundreds of years, wind, rain and high humidity have shaped their trunks and branches, causing them to twist, bend and grow into extraordinary forms. Together with the clouds that often settle at forest level, these unusual trees create Fanal's famous mystical atmosphere.

Fanal is located between the mountains of Seixal and Ribeira da Janela, in the Paul da Serra plateau area. The area is also home to a small volcanic crater with a seasonal lake and forms part of the Rest and Quiet Reserve.

How to explore Fanal

Most visitors drive to the parking area, get out of the car and head straight for the famous trees. But Fanal is much more rewarding when explored on foot.

Two official hiking routes pass through the forest — PR13 Vereda do Fanal and PR14 Levada dos Cedros.

You can walk part of either route or complete the full trail. If you are planning a hike, it is worth arranging your transport in advance, as the starting and finishing points are different. A private guide with transport can help you choose the right option, organise the logistics and show you exactly where to start and finish.

The trails are marked with signs at the beginning and end, as well as at some junctions. The signs indicate the direction, trail name and distance. Information boards are also provided where hiking trails cross the road.

Why is Fanal called mystical?

The main reason is the unusual shapes of the old trees. Over hundreds of years, exposure to wind, rain and constant humidity has shaped their trunks and branches into twisted, curved forms, while many of the trees have become covered in moss.

The clouds are another defining feature. Fanal lies at an elevation where moist Atlantic air often becomes trapped by the mountain terrain. As a result, what appears in photographs as fog is often actually a cloud settling at forest level.

It is this combination of ancient, twisted trees and low clouds that creates Fanal's famous mystical atmosphere.

Fanal can be beautiful without the fog

Social media has made fog so closely associated with Fanal that it can seem as though the forest is supposed to look this way every time.

But if you arrive on a clear, sunny day, don't be disappointed. You may simply have been lucky enough to see Fanal from a different perspective.

In sunny weather, the shapes of the old trees, the green slopes and the landscape around the forest are much easier to appreciate. Foggy Fanal is famous, while sunny Fanal is rare.

What to bring

The weather in Fanal can be very different from the coast: it is cooler, more humid and often windy, and the ground can become very muddy after rain.

If you are simply arriving by car and walking among the trees, wear dark-coloured shoes. White or light-coloured footwear can get dirty very quickly here.

For hiking, also bring:

• dark-coloured footwear
• a waterproof jacket
• windproof clothing
• water
• snacks

There are no cafés or shops in Fanal where you can buy food or water, so bring everything you need with you.

Parking, toilets and picnic area

There are two main parking areas before entering Fanal: a smaller one directly in front of the forest entrance, next to the toilet, and a larger one across the road.

During busy periods, both parking areas are often completely full. In that case, cars are parked along the road where parking is permitted and space is available.

There is a free toilet at the main parking area with very basic facilities.

A picnic area with tables and benches is located nearby. Large rubbish containers are provided. Please clean up after yourself, as there is no regular cleaning service in this area.

If you are driving

Visibility on the road to Fanal can change quickly because of dense clouds, rain and wind. In these conditions, slow down and use your fog lights.

And watch the road carefully: there are many cows around Fanal, and they can suddenly walk onto the road. Warning signs are in place, so take extra care when driving.

Why is Fanal worth seeing?

Fanal is more than a few unusual trees beside a parking area. It is part of an ancient ecosystem dating back around 20 million years, home to centuries-old tis trees, mountain forest, clouds at ground level and trails that allow you to experience Laurissilva from within.

If you love nature and hiking, Fanal is not just a place to visit — it is a place to explore on foot.